PKSafety.com Blog

Chances are all of us have some level of exposure to formaldehyde. Formaldehyde is inexpensive to produce and has a wide range of uses from building materials such as paint or the glue used to bind plywood, particle board and paneling to the Brazilian Blowout, a hair-straitening product found to contain startlingly high concentrations of this dangerous compound.

For those who work in industries where formaldehyde is used regularly the dangers are quite serious. Even light contact with formaldehyde (also abbreviated HCHO) can irritate the eyes and affect the mucous membranes and upper respiratory system. Prolonged or acute exposure can create severe abdominal pain, convulsions, diarrhea, bronchitis, pneumonia or pulmonary edema. Not only that, but OSHA has determined that formaldehyde is a genotoxic, showing properties of both a cancer initiator and promoter for early and late stage carcinogen. While those who work around formaldehyde regularly – agricultural workers, drug makers, furniture makers and finishers, and now salon workers – are at some risk of ingesting the compound, the more common routes for exposure are through skin absorption and inhalation.

While latex gloves provide some barrier to absorption, butyl or nitrile gloves are recommended and should be used when contact is anticipated. With regard to inhalation, employers who require workers to be exposed to formaldehyde in concentrations over .75 parts of formaldehyde per million parts of air (.75 ppm), must provide and make sure the employees wear respirators that conform to OSHA standards 1910.134 for respiratory protection. A great mask that meets these requirements is the Moldex 9000 Respirator Combination.

The Moldex 9000 is a full face respirator that, when properly worn, will protect not only the lungs of the wearer, but also the eyes and the mucous membranes that can be affected by formaldehyde fumes. The mask features Moldex 7600 Multi-Gas Vapor Smart Cartridges that are capable of filtering multiple gases that may be present in the same work space.

According to Wikipedia, last year over 50 billion tons of formaldehyde was produced worldwide. Workers and employers who work with this compound need to take steps to prevent exposure that can lead to short term and long term hazards to health.

Justin Respiratory Formaldehyde, manufacturing, OSHA, Respirator, worker protection

The wine making industry has grown tremendously in the US over the past 20 years. Professionals and hobbyists alike ferment great quantities of pressed grapes to produce the ancient ambrosia. However, not all parts of the wine making process bring joy. There is a serious side to viticulture where cleaning equipment, tanks, vats and other confined spaces may hide potentially lethal dangers for those who press the noble grape.

Confined spaces within the wine industry can relate to any areas, fully enclosed, partially enclosed or even open topped, which are not intended to be a normal, habitable workspace. These can include fermentation vats, bins, and even some barrels. Because of the nature of fermentation as well as chemicals used for cleaning equipment (such as Potassium Metabisulfite and others), there are opportunities for sulfur dioxide (SO2), carbon dioxide (CO2), ethanol (EtOH) and even water vapor to create unsafe work atmospheres in these potentially dangerous areas where workers are required operate.

For permit required confined spaces in tanks and vats, an airline respirator is often the only appropriate respiratory device. However, in technically non-confined spaces where fumes or chemicals may be present, ventilation is critical as are respirators with filters that protect against acid gas and other organic vapors such as the 3M 6003m Organic Vapor/Acid Gas Cartridge or the Moldex 7600 Multi-Gas Vapor Smart Cartridge.

There is ample evidence to suggest that even well-trained personnel can drown or be asphyxiated when their work requires them to be exposed to the dangerous atmospheres created by wine making in a small or confined area. Wherever possible, tank work should be done without entering the tank or vat space. Long handled tools for shoveling and automated cleaning systems can keep wine makers away from potential danger.

Entry into areas that may contain toxic environments must be made by people trained in confined space entry. Those workers must have the appropriate protective gear (PPE) including a gas monitor for testing the atmosphere, a means of safe entrance and egress of the space, and the ability to be retrieved by competent people outside the space if they are overcome while working.

For all wine makers, the best line of defense against potential harm is knowledge of the dangers lurking in confined spaces. Training and written confined space programs are a must for a professional enterprise so these dangers are apparent to all workers. All areas that may contain dangerous atmospheres where a person might conceivably enter and become trapped should be labeled with warning signs and written permissions must be obtained each time workers want to enter those spaces.

To paraphrase the famous California wine maker Paul Masson, “We will enter no confined space before it has been properly ventilated and checked for any and all atmospheric hazards.” Or something like that.

Photo credit: Cornell Blog

Justin Confined Space acid gas, Confined Space, Confined Space Entry, Gas Monitor, organic vapor, Respirator, wine tank

Leonardo da Vinci did more than paint the Mona Lisa. He was also a safety pioneer! Seeing some of his fellow artists coughing while chiseling and sanding marble, he had the idea that a piece of cloth dipped in water and stretched over the nose and mouth could make the job safer. He was onto something. Safety masks have become a job site necessity for many different professions and hobbies. (He should have been using an N95. Get yours here.)

It’s a good thing too, because lungs are delicate and hard to repair. Over the past 300 years or so, advancements in chemistry and industry have continuously caused us to learn this fact the hard way. In fact, we have used tons of chemicals before knowing the myriad of ways these nifty potions turn our bodies into toxic goo. Most of the time, we can’t even see it happening. The majority of airborne particles are between .1 and 5 microns. A micron is one millionth of a meter, which is far too small to see with the naked eye, unless you have some sort of Batman gadget that makes it possible.

The National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH), a division of the Centers for Disease Control, determines ratings that allow a person to choose the right mask for whatever job needs to be done.  Here are the major ratings in clear language, along with what each one protects against. Print out this little chart and hang onto it. Also, note what some do not protect against:

The “N” stands for the not resistant to oil, of course, and “P” is for “oil proof,” and can help you remember that only masks with a “P” rating can provide ample protection against oil-based particulates.  It is helpful to note that since government agencies determine these ratings, one N95 mask that is more expensive than another will not provide some kind of “better” N95 protection. (Check out some of our N95 masks like the Moldex 2300!) It’s likely the added cost is simply connected to a name brand.

With Christmas around the corner, it’s good news that Santa’s sleigh is reindeer powered. (Although if he were allergic to reindeer, an N95 mask would serve him well.) If his sleigh ran on diesel, he might have to cancel Christmas or shave off his trademark beard. (For those of you without facial hair, you can protect yourself from diesel with a P100 filter and a half face mask.) As many a beard wearer learns to his chagrin, facial hair makes a mask essentially useless, so while those with beards look cool and rugged on the outside, their lungs will suffer if they are working jobs that require a mask. This is the time of year when you can appreciate why it matters to stay safe year round. We sell a number of P100 pancake filters (like the 3M 2091) that you can attach to your respirator.  

Mike Respiratory Dust Masks, Lungs, Moldex 2300, N100, N95, N99, P100, P95, P99, Pancake Filters, Particulate Filter, R95, Respirator, Respirators, Safety Masks

“Why don’t employers give their workers the best respiratory protection?”

This is a question that we run into all the time. It basically comes down to two issues: not wanting to fit test and cost.

Fit Testing

Many employers believe that if they are not offering an approved mask to their workers, they don’t need to worry about fit testing. Unfortunately, this is a misconception. Since the only way to know for sure that a mask is doing its job is through fit testing, OSHA makes it a mandatory part of any respirator program. Depending on how strictly you interpret the regulations, employers should not offer a non-approved respirator to their employees in the first place.

Basic fit testing is a little time consuming, but it’s not difficult. Kits are available on our site, or it can be performed as a service by a variety of industrial hygienists. Many safety folks like to have the documentation for employee files.

Cost

The second issue is cost. There is the cost associated with fit testing and the cost of the masks themselves. In general, lower quality masks are cheaper.

Our customers, and even some suppliers, use the term ‘dust mask’ freely. However, technically a dust mask is not a device approved by NIOSH. The simple, lightweight mask with a single strap is not recognized as a device that can protect your lungs, but it’s cheap! Boxes of 50 dust masks are typically around $6.85/box.

The purpose of any mask is to keep you from inhaling bad stuff, but the poor fit and low quality filter material of the dust mask don’t protect the wearer from vapors. If you’re doing a relatively simple task, like sweeping out the garage or running a leaf blower, and just want to keep large particles of dust out of your face, then it’s a good option.

By contrast, a disposable respirator with an N95 rating has been tested and recognized as meeting certain thresholds of filter efficiency and mask fit. This level of performance is our most popular category of disposable respirators.

This level of technology and testing does increase the cost. Our most popular basic N95 mask is the 3M 8210, and they sell for about $12.85 per box of 20 masks. Optional features, including exhalation valves, can increase this cost.

The cost per mask, in very general terms is  about $.14 for the dust mask and $.64 for the N95 disposable respirator. When ordering a large quantity of masks, this difference in cost adds up.

If you have any questions about which mask is right for your job, please give us a call! Reduced respiratory function over time may be attributed to hazards on the job versus lifestyle choices or previous employment exposures. A pro-active effort on the part of the employer can help reduce or eliminate this liability.

Administrator Respiratory 3M 8210, Dust Mask, Fit Test, Fit Testing, N95, Respirator

The variety of jobs and tasks our customers set out to do continually amazes me. Here is a query from a recent customer about his task:

In an upcoming job I will be melting lead and spraying acrylic and lacquer based paints. What mask and filters do you recommend to protect me from the fumes associated with these tasks? How does sizing on the masks work?

For the lead fumes I suggest using a P100 (HEPA) filter such as the 3M 2091 Particulate Filter or the 3M 7093 P100 HEPA filter. P100 and N100 filters are rated for this application. Lower rated (N95) filters will not stop these dangerous and toxic substances.

For spraying paint of the types you mentioned, I would recommend a different combination: the 3M 6001 organic vapor cartridge with a 5P71 prefilter, held on with a 501 retainer.

All of these filter combinations will fit on either the 6000 or 7500 series half mask respirators. Both masks will work well, but the 3M 7500 silicone facepiece is more comfortable and seems to fit more people, while the 3M 6000 is more economical.

There are ways of making a combination that will cover both paint and lead fumes, but it would be more expensive, both initially and in the long run.

Sadly, there is no definitive way to know which size is correct in advance. About 75% of the masks we sell are size medium. If you think that you have a large face, then you likely do (or at least pretty close to large). That is about the best advice I can give on sizing. We have a more complete explanation of the respirator size question at http://www.pksafety.com/halfmask.html our half mask respirator page.

As always, if you have a question about your specific application, feel free to contact us and ask. It’s better to be sure that you are getting the right protection than to breathe in something like lead fumes!

Administrator Respiratory Acrylic, Filters, Half Mask, HEPA, Lead, Lead Fumes, Mask, N100, Paint, Paint Fumes, Respirator, Respirator Mask

I had a customer recently who worked with a wide variety of materials and needed a mask and filters to cover everything. Let’s take a look:

I am working around many materials that I would like protection from. I am cutting hardened epoxy, fiberglass, wood, and plastic. I also do welding from time to time. I am also exposed to epoxies in the liquid state.  Which mask and replaceable filters should I be using to protect me from these exposures? How long do the filters last? What size mask should I buy?

For working with the liquid epoxy, and cutting it after hardening, I recommend the 3M 60921 organic vapor cartridges. It has a layer of activated charcoal to absorb the vapors generated and a P100 (HEPA) filter to catch the particles. I would use this same combination when cutting the fiberglass and plastic.

For the woodworking and welding I would recommend the 3M 2097 particulate filters. This P100 rated filter will catch the smallest particles as well as the metal fumes generated during welding. A thin layer of charcoal absorbs nuisance vapors and the ozone from arc type welding.

You can interchange the recommended filters and cartridges on the same half mask respirator. The 3M 6000 half face piece mask is our top selling half mask and is more economy minded in terms of price. If you are looking for a more comfortable respirator, I would go with the 3M 7500 half face piece mask. All of these filters, cartridges and masks are available on our site, and are in stock.

Unfortunately there is no set time for filter or cartridge life. It depends very much on the concentration of the particles being breathed. Filters should be easy to breathe through when new. As they get used, particles accumulate on the filter, and the breathing resistance increases. It gets to a point where it is hard to breathe through, and then it is time to change. The happy side of this is that the filters are getting more efficient as they get loaded up with dust, but there is a practical limit to this.

For cartridges, they absorb vapors like a sponge. When new, you should not smell or taste the solvent. This means that once they have absorbed all they can, you get ‘breakthrough,’ meaning you will smell or taste the solvent. Then it is time to change. It should also be noted that when the concentration of vapors exceeds the capacity of the cartridge to take in vapors, the cartridge can be overwhelmed (temporarily) and you again get breakthrough.

The mask sizing goes like this; about 80% of our customers buy medium size. If your face is quite small (thinking petite woman), then choose small. For large, the face will be noticeably large, or have an unusually prominent nose (for instance). Fit testing is really the only sure way to tell. Unfortunately there are no real measurements you can follow. I hope this helped!

As always feel free to contact us with questions specific to your task!

Administrator Respiratory 6000 Half Face Mask, 60921 Organic Vapor Cartridge, Cartridge, Epoxie, Filter, Half Face Piece Mask, Respirator

One question I am constantly getting is which filter and mask to use in a particular application. The answer to this depends highly on what the context is, but this specific question has a lot of common things you might want to protect yourself against with a mask and filters:

I’m working in a building doing demo work. I am knocking down block walls, working with fiberglass and there is asbestos present as well. I have noticed my eyes getting itch from the fiberglass. What respirator and filters would you recommend to cover all of these areas? The trick is, I need something that I can sweat and work extremely hard in.

I would recommend the 3M 7500 half facepiece respirator mask and the 3M 7093 P100 Hepa filters. To protect the eyes, I recommend using the G704T Chemical Splash Safety Goggles or well fitting safety glasses. I hesitate to offer a full-face mask because it would retain heat and make the really hard work even less fun.

The 6000 half facepiece mask would also work in this application, but the 7500 is made of a softer material and is much more comfortable to wear. Since this job entails lots of hard work, the more comfortable mask will most likely be preferable. That being said, wearing a mask is different than not wearing a mask, so all respirators will create some degree of hassle.

The 2091 Particulate filter would also work in this situation but when working with asbestos, having a filter within a plastic case is best. It reduces the possibility of the asbestos being shaken out of the filter and onto a surface where you might breathe it again later.

As mentioned at the beginning of the post, the right mask and filter for your job depends heavily on what you are working with so if you are unsure of what to use, feel free to contact us and ask. Happy demoing!

Administrator Respiratory Asbestos, Demo, Demolition, Fiberglass, Filter, Goggles, Mask, Respirator

Asbestos Removal Equipment

One of our most persistent lines of inquiry has to do with asbestos in the home. As an avid Do-It-Yourselfer, this has been a subject of interest to me for years. Since I had a few questions along the same line of inquiry last week, I wrote this ‘general’ response. You can probably figure out what the questions were.

For our homeowner DIY customers, we see asbestos in 3 main areas; furnace duct work, popcorn ceilings and linoleum type (maybe not actual linoleum) flooring. The duct work is usually a metal tube covered with a paper-like coating meant to provide some measure of insulation. The problem comes when you want to modify or upgrade your heating system (same thing applies to boiler type heating plants). When you mess with the duct, the coating crumbles. This is called ‘friable’ asbestos. The particles can become quite small, and if inhaled can cause mesothelioma. This is the disease afflicting shipyard workers and the like. So, back to our story. The homeowner gets a price from the furnace company to remove the ductwork, and once they get up off the floor, they figure…heck, I can do that for almost nothing…What usually happens is they do a good, but maybe not good enough job, and it gets left for the next homeowner to discover, or not. You see, the particles are small and very hard to notice if you aren’t looking for them. The flip side is that it is almost impossible for a homeowner to effectively mitigate the problem. To the point that if it gets tested by a pro, they will almost certainly find asbestos particles and red flag the house, initiating a cleanup and legal dispute.

So the best answer in most cases is to leave it where it is if possible. If the material is contained, it really poses no problem. There are paint-like products meant to seal it in place, among other strategies.

For popcorn ceilings…depending on the year installed (usually before ’72) there may be some percentage of asbestos. We’ve heard of quite a few folks tackling this one. Same basic problems as noted above, but it is possible to do a fairly good job, if you’re careful. The idea is to put down plastic (6 to 10mil thick) on the floor, reaching a foot or 2 up the wall and taped off. Then hang plastic (can be somewhat thinner, i.e 2 mil) on the walls (right up next to the ceiling), again taped off, so that it overlaps the ‘tub’ you have made on the floor. You put on the Tyvek bunny suit, a P100 rated respirator, gloves etc. and use a pump sprayer to moisten the ceiling. Put a detergent liquid in the water to reduce the surface tension. Then scrape off the popcorn with a pole scraper, all the while spraying. Once you are done, bag the stuff up in marked bags and dispose of properly.

For the floors, it really is the black mastic adhesive that had the asbestos, though some tiles also had it. Really tough to tackle this one. If you have ever tried to take that stuff up, you’ll know what I mean. Better to just lay new flooring over it, or I’ve heard people just take up the whole subfloor and be done with it.

Almost forgot…asbestos siding. The siding shingles are hard as a rock, and really only become a problem when they break or are damaged. Careful removal is done quite regularly, though a fussy neighbor could get the city on you. Then you’ll have guys in Tyvek suits working on the house ($$$).

A lot of people have gotten sick over the years inhaling asbestos. This doesn’t have to be you. We know about the dangers, and we know how to protect ourselves. Leave the asbestos in place, undisturbed, unless there is no way around it. Wear your P100 (HEPA) rated respirator and disposable clothing. It should be fine.

Rick Respiratory Asbestos, Respirator, Tyvek